The Pacific

After a season in the Caribbean marred by a COVID cancelled Atlantic crossing, Gargoyle has returned to her home ocean, the beautiful Pacific. After our second transit of the Panama Canal, we headed up the coast to Vista Mar marina for a quick engine service and to catch up with friends from our first season. We then beat our way around the aptly named Punta Mala or Bad Point. We then sailed through Northwestern Panama in some of the rainiest weather we have seen yet. Why the rush? Our 6 month visa was set to expire, and we had to be out of Panama by November 3rd. It was a tough race to get there in time but on the third we checked out of Panama at Punta Armuelles. Other than a scary beach landing in our dinghy, this was a delightful experience thanks to the local port official, Omar.

Now officially out of Panama, we headed Northwest to round the point and enter Costa Rica via the Golfo Dolce and Golfito. We anchored off the docks in this calm bay and with the assistance of Gabriela at Banana Bay marina, we were again officially checked into a country. We really cannot say enough great things about Gabriela as she made the rather involved process simple and even helped us setup our new SIM cards.

Golfito is a nice place to recover from a tough passage with a calm bay that is well protected. The daily afternoon rains cool things off nicely and the town provides a laidback place to reprovision or relax at a local bar. Golfito is much more remote and isolated than the northern areas, so this is a more “genuine” experience than the tourist areas. Though this does mean you have only local markets for provisioning with the smaller selection that this entails. We found it perfectly adequate and enjoyed our week rest here.

Next, we headed up to Puntarenas, 150NM away,  to pick up our next guests. Our first planned anchorage was Bahia Drake but to shave off enough miles to make the run in a single day we crossed the Golfo Dulce and anchored for the night off Puerto Jimenez. While we did not go ashore we enjoyed the protected anchorage which allowed us to rest up before a 5:00 AM departure for Bahia Drake.

This southern coastline makes for a gorgeous sail with some of Costa Rica’s wildest rainforest to keep you company. Waterfalls, cliffs and amazing rock structures made the view one to remember. Following a full day of motor sailing we dropped anchor in Bahia Drake in time to enjoy a sundowner and relax. The swell was not too bad the first night but by morning it had picked up, so we deployed a stern anchor as well before heading ashore to explore.

Bahia Drake is an eco-tourist destination, and the town is a great place to grab a beer or dinner in a very casual and laidback fashion. Built along the hills, this village was well worth the stop. Note that the dinghy landing on the beach can be quite difficult so we recommend tying up to the resort dock just a short way up the river. Take note of the tides and the reef. The pass through the reef is well marked on the charts, do not miss it!

On our second day in Bahia Drake, we opted to take a tour operator out to Isla Cano, a nature reserve that requires a licensed tour operator to visit. We split up for the day to snorkel and dive this beautiful spot. Carla enjoyed snorkeling the island in the company of large sea turtles and a plethora of fish. Meanwhile Kevin took several dives in the company of small sharks and again, a huge number of fish. All in all, it was a good way to spend a day.

The following morning, we arose early to make the jump to our next anchorage, only to be greeted by large swells and strong winds. On top of this we discovered a broken hose clamp while doing our engine inspection. We were able to track it down and replace but this cost us an hour. Then, after a long and frustrating process to recover our stern anchor, we found our planned early departure delayed such that we would not be able to make our planned anchorage by nightfall. So, we opted for an alternative anchorage, Playa Uvita.

As usually happens with alternative anchorages, Playa Uvita turned out to be a bit of a disaster, both due to the geography as well as our lack of detailed planning. The anchorage is tucked in behind a reef that is typically enough to keep the swell to a minimum, enough that a stern anchor can tame it easily. Unfortunately for us, the swell turned out to be 9  plus that night as we spent an uncomfortable night with the largest swells sweeping through the anchorage and burying Gargoyle’s nose. As stated, we failed to check the swell report on our surf app and disregarded the guidebook note that this was an anchorage you would either “love or hate”. Live and learn! At first light we were up and out of there. Next stop, the shelter of the Golfo de Nicoya.

The Golfo de Nicoya in central Costa Rica was much further than we had planned, at 70 nautical miles. However, by this time we had had enough of the roadstead anchorages and the continued Pacific swell. With little to no wind we lit up Gargoyle’s diesel and settled in for a long boring but calm motor. By late afternoon we were dodging long lines as we entered the Gulf and were soon anchored off the resorts in Punta Leona.

Punta Leona was just what the doctor ordered, a calm and protected anchorage. The beach is busy during the day and especially on the weekends, but we were the only cruisers to anchor there. We were joined several times by 66’ Azimut yachts but other than that, a perfect place to while away a few days as we waited for our guests from Norway.

As the day of their arrival neared, it was time to check out a few other anchorages where we planned to entertain our family. We pulled the hook and made the short jaunt over to the anchorage between Isla Jesusita and Isla Cedros. This would prove to be one of the best anchorages of the entire Costa Rica season as it provided a calm anchorage with the bonus of a fabulous resort restaurant and bar, Isla Chiquita. Be warned, it is not a cheap place to eat or drink but it is a great stop with its own dinghy dock.

Now, with our guests arriving the next evening, it was time to head in. We had made reservations at Porto Azul marina and called them to confirm our reservation and arrival time. After much challenge with the language differences, we were told that they did not have any slips that accommodate our draft of 6’8”. Luckily, they did suggest we contact the Costa Rica Yacht Club, which is next door, and they were able to assure us they had a “float” that could hold Gargoyle. So, the next morning we weighed anchor and headed over to Puntarenas.

We had known that Puntarenas is a tricky place for cruisers to visit due to the shallow depth of the un-dredged river, but nothing could have prepared us for the navigation up to the marina. We were lucky to be entering with a local sailor and he offered to guide us in. Otherwise,  a pilot boat is a must! Sticking close to our lead boat we wound our way back and forth up the river, making numerous sharp turns to dodge wrecks, rocks and bars. Entering at high tide, we had no more than six” under our keel at several instances. Finally, we arrived at the yacht club and were greeted by an incredibly helpful crew which helped secure us to a “float,” which was basically an old wooden dock half the length of Gargoyle, anchored on the side of the river. Once the tide receded we found ourselves landlocked in our small pond, dredged to 12.’ Quite the experience!

That afternoon we caught a taxi into town and provisioned the boat in advance of our guest’s late arrival. Primarily, this meant beer and wine, as we always like to shop with our friends and family and get everything squared away. Finally, at 10:00 PM that evening, more than two years after our planned Costa Rica visit, our brother and sister-in-law arrived from Norway. Hugs and tears all around!

After a few days of provisioning and a full day delay in sorting out the Port Captain requirements for an exit Zarpe, we cast off from our float and followed our pilot boat out through the snaking passage. Finally free, we pointed the bow towards our first stop, Isla San Lucas.

Isla San Lucas was once the home to a brutal prison, like Alcatraz. Closed back in 1991, the island was declared a national park in 2020. The prison itself is currently being restored as a tourist attraction and after sorting out the permits required, we were given a great tour of the former prison and the island. Note that this area is not frequented often by cruisers and the head of the park asked to take our picture for the publicity. Our kind of a tour spot! Following the two hour tour, we pulled up the hook and headed over to our previous anchorage near Isla Jesusita to relax, paddleboard, swim and dine ashore. After resting up, it was time for us to head out to our next stop.

Isla Tortugas is a tourist destination with a nice anchorage just off the beach. This is not a quiet anchorage however as tour boats descend each day and deposit hundreds of Costa Ricans to enjoy the islands snorkeling, beaches and bars for the day. We spent two nights here and enjoyed the lively atmosphere, the Chiliguaro (a fiery shot made with Guaro, a sugar cane distilled liquor) and the huge Pina Colada’s, served inside a hollowed out pineapple. We highly recommend this stop if you are looking for a lively beach scene.

As we had now used up our families first week in Costa Rica, it was time to head out on the Pacific and make for Costa Rica’ third famous Gulf, Golfo de Papagayo. Before then, we had a few more stops planned. First up, Bahia Ballena. This large, protected bay is home to a local fishing village and a rapidly expanding town clearly growing thanks to a large ex-pat population. After walking through the fishing village and giving our family a chance to see how locals live, we headed over to the town to grab a few provisions and eat at the great corner pizza place near the beach. Then after a restful night, it was off to our first stop in what is considered Northern Costa Rica, Bahia Samara.

Bahia Samara is a delightful town with restaurants and bars lining the beach. Primarily known as a surf town, this spot is now growing as more tourists discover its funky charm. Here we discovered the world’s best chips and guacamole at a local beachfront hotel bar. Then we were amazed to come across a true Italian deli. And we do mean true as this shop carried a large assortment of fresh pasta, meats, cheeses and wines. We could have almost stayed anchored in Samara just for the proximity of the deli.

Next stop on our trip up the coast was Tamarindo. A prime tourist location and known to locals as gringo central, due to its large ex-pat community, this stop proved to be nothing but an overnight anchorage for us. During our sail up from Samara, we encountered steady winds of 35 to 40 knots. This built the sea state to such a point that the anchorage, while tenable for sleeping, was simply too rough to allow a dinghy landing. So, after a fun evening watching the tour operators taking their hordes out to see the sunset, we set off the next day for a calmer spot to anchor and entertain.

After another rough night off Playa Flamingo, we tucked around the corner into Bahia Potrero. This bay proved to be exactly what the doctor had ordered as the many miles of beach are lined with bars, restaurants and easy landing spots for our dinghy. It was at one of these bars that we were reunited with a friend we made back in the Cayman Islands, Ukulele Joe. Joe’s a sailor and delivery captain that has landed here to work at a sailing school before he sets off on his next adventure. We joined him at the fantastic Hemmingway’s on the beach for some much needed hydration before restocking our wine supply at the local liquor mart. This is a great anchorage and we later met Jeff, the owner of the sailing center and restaurant. He plans to put in mooring balls as well as to offer dinghy “valet” service, which along this rough coast will be a godsend. This is a five star stop for cruisers, do not miss it.

Finally, with our family’s time with us growing short it was time to head around the corner and into Costa Rica’ northernmost gulf, Golfo Papagayo. This area is home to the fearsome Papagayo winds, and they did not disappoint on our final sailing day. With the wind instruments pegging forty-three knots, Carla’s brother got a good introduction to Bluewater sailing conditions. Fully reefed and in Craig’s steady hands, Gargoyle made easy work of the upwind beat and after just a few hours we found ourselves tucking into an anchorage just outside our final destination, Marina Papagayo.

The next morning, we tucked into our berth in the marina before the winds piped up and settled down to be tourists for a few days. Marina Papagayo is a true superyacht marina and when we entered was host to six superyachts from 150’ to 250’ as well as the 360’ superyacht Anna, anchored off the marina, that we last saw back in the Turks and Caicos. Google founder Larry Page, Starbucks Howard Schultz and British royalty all had their boats here over the holidays. Gargoyle was in good company.

After far too much wine, beer and great dining, it was time for our family to head home to Norway for Christmas. With more hugs and tears we bid them farewell and then settled down to get Gargoyle ready for our departure. Finally, after a two year hiatus due to COVID, we were able to fly home to Canada. We departed for Calgary, home to Carla’s parents, on December 19th and enjoyed three weeks of home cooking. It was a wonderful way to spend the holiday and we look forward to more frequent visits to both Canada as well as to see Kevin’s Mom in the US.

Now we are back on the boat and after giving her a good washing, we have settled in to prep her for our next big voyage. After we complete a standing rigging replacement and new house batteries, we will be making the 3,500NM hop to French Polynesia as we begin our season in the South Pacific. Stay tuned!